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Camino de Santiago

Camino Primitivo: The Original Way from Oviedo

The Camino Primitivo is said to be the oldest route to Santiago: in the 9th century King Alfonso II walked from Oviedo to visit the newly found tomb of the apostle. Today it is a demanding, beautiful mountain route of a little over 300 km, usually walked in 13 or 14 stages.

Why people love it

It crosses the green mountains of western Asturias and the Lugo highlands, with few roads and small villages. It is much quieter than the Camino Francés, and the albergues have a close, friendly atmosphere.

Highlights along the way

Oviedo, where pilgrims visit the Cathedral of San Salvador before leaving. The Hospitales route between Borres and Berducedo, a high, exposed path past the ruins of medieval pilgrim hospitals; walk it only in good weather, and take the lower route through Pola de Allande in fog, rain or snow. The Salime reservoir, a long descent to a huge dam. A Fonsagrada, the first town in Galicia. Lugo, with the only Roman city walls in the world that still surround a whole city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At Melide the Primitivo joins the Camino Francés for the last two days.

How hard is it?

Expect several days with 600 to 950 m of climbing. It suits walkers who already have some experience or who train beforehand. Our Primitivo stage guide shows the climb of every stage.

When to go

May to early October is best. In winter the high sections can get snow, and some albergues close.

Related gear

Handy for this trip:

Trekking poles

Lightweight poles save your knees on the long descents.

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Broken-in trail shoes

Trail runners or light boots: the single biggest comfort choice.

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Where to stay

Stay: pilgrim-friendly guesthouses

Search private rooms and guesthouses along the route on Booking.com.

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Travel & health insurance

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Travel & trip insurance

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Long-stay expat health cover

Visa-qualifying private health insurance for non-lucrative and digital nomad visas.

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